Nestled in the northernmost part of Thailand, Chiang Rai is a city steeped in history, vibrant culture, and a flourishing arts scene. Though smaller and quieter than its bustling neighbor Chiang Mai, it offers travelers an intimate glimpse into the unique artistic identity of the region. From breathtaking temples to modern art installations and scenic riverside cafes, Chiang Rai delivers a balanced mix of tradition and contemporary charm.
In this post, I’ll share how I got to Chiang Rai, where I stayed, its fascinating history, and the unforgettable experiences I had exploring its temples, art, and more.
How I Got There
Traveling to Chiang Rai from Chiang Mai is both affordable and efficient. I opted for the budget-friendly bus ride, which took about three hours and costs between $5 and $10. The journey was comfortable, with an air-conditioned coach and a convenient bathroom stop midway. I even got a cat nap in. Once we arrived, I ordered a Grab through the app and was at my hotel in no time.
If you’re planning your visit, I recommend taking the bus for its cost-effectiveness and scenic views. If you’re coming from the South though, Chiang Rai does have a small airport with flights from Bangkok and Phuket.
Where I Stayed
Chiang Rai offers a variety of neighborhoods, each catering to different travel styles. Here’s a breakdown:
- City Center (Near the Clock Tower): Perfect for first-time visitors, this area is bustling with activity. Highlights include walking access to the Night Bazaar, the Hill Tribe Museum, and a variety of dining options. Recommended stays: Le Patta Hotel Chiang Rai (modern and comfortable) and Nak Nakara Hotel (a boutique stay with a traditional touch).
- Rim Kok: Located along the Kok River, this serene neighborhood is ideal for travelers seeking peace and natural beauty. Close to Wat Rong Suea Ten (Blue Temple) and perfect for morning walks. Recommended stays: The Riverie by Katathani (luxury riverside resort) and Laluna Hotel and Resort (a garden retreat).
- Near Wat Rong Khun (White Temple): A peaceful option for art and architecture lovers, this area offers easy access to the iconic White Temple. Recommended stays: Manonnee Chiang Rai (boutique and stylish) and 666 Place (budget-friendly and cozy).
- Near Chiang Rai Airport: Convenient for short stays or early flights. Recommended stays: Doowall Hotel (modern and cozy).
I stayed at Nak Nakara Hotel in the city center and absolutely loved it. The pool was a refreshing break from the heat, the rooms were immaculate, and the staff went above and beyond, booking tours and providing local insights.
Historical and Artistic Legacy
Founded by King Mangrai in 1262, Chiang Rai served as the first capital of the Lanna Kingdom. Over the centuries, the city evolved into a cultural melting pot, influenced by its proximity to Myanmar and Laos. Unlike Chiang Mai, which thrives as a vibrant cultural and commercial hub, Chiang Rai offers a more tranquil and intimate atmosphere, with a focus on art and natural beauty.
The North and South of Thailand have significant historical and cultural differences due to geography and the influence of different kingdoms. Northern Thailand, including Chiang Rai, was once part of the Lanna Kingdom. The area was known for cooler climates, mountains, and traditional crafts like weaving and wood carving. Southern Thailand was influenced by maritime trade and is characterized by its tropical beaches, coconut plantations, and its mix of Thai, Malay, and Indian cultures. These differences can be seen in the art, architecture, cuisine, and overall identity of the two regions.
Today, Chiang Rai’s artistic legacy shines through its temples, galleries, and the works of legendary Thai artist Thawan Duchanee, who was born in the city. His masterpiece, Baan Dam (The Black House), showcases a stunning fusion of traditional Lanna art and modern aesthetics. His work has left an indelible mark on the city, elevating it as a hub for both traditional and modern art.
Temple Tour: A Journey Through Chiang Rai’s Art
The temples in Chiang Rai are not just places of worship but incredible works of art. While there are many beautiful temples located around the city, there are three that stand out as contemporary works of art:
- Wat Rong Khun (The White Temple): Designed by artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, this contemporary temple dazzles with its intricate white facade and mirrored mosaics. Inside, the murals blend Buddhist imagery with modern elements like superheroes and spaceships, making it both spiritual and thought-provoking.
- Wat Rong Suea Ten (The Blue Temple): Known for its striking cobalt blue interiors and golden accents, this temple is a visual delight. It was designed by a student of Chalermchai Kositpipat and features a serene Buddha statue surrounded by intricate details.
- Baan Dam Museum (The Black House): A stark contrast to the White Temple, this complex designed by Thawan Duchanee showcases dark, gothic-style architecture and a collection of provocative art pieces. The Black House invites visitors to explore themes of life, death, and spirituality through its unconventional exhibits.
I booked this tour through Viator, but you can also book a Grab to get to each one. The cost likely works out to be the same, and the tour includes lunch and an afternoon exploring the surrounding countryside. The afternoon focuses on learning about the Karen people and also adds a trip to the Golden Triangle, the meeting point of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos.
I ended up skipping the second half of the day because I wanted more time at The Black House. Duchanee’s work is fascinating, and I loved spending the entire afternoon there. I lucked out as Chiang Rai was hosting the Thailand Biennale as well during my visit, and multiple regional artists combined their works with Duchanee’s existing exhibits for an incredible experience.
Thailand Biennale: A Modern Art Festival
The Thailand Biennale is a prestigious modern art festival, transferring to different provinces throughout the country each year. The Biennale featured installations across the city, often juxtaposing contemporary works with historical sites. When I first got to Thailand, I was excited to explore the art of a different culture and country, particularly modern art. However, I was surprised I really struggled to connect with what I saw at first. The majority of pieces in the Museum of Contemporary Art in Bangkok looked quite traditional to me, drawing on themes like Buddhism and folklore. This was also the case for a lot of what I saw in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.
One exhibit in particular at the White Temple challenged me, featuring artists Korakrit Arunanondchai, Tsherin Sherpa, and Chalermchai Kositpipat. In their description, they stated a goal to to “challenge the rejection of traditional artistry and craftsmanship in Western contemporary art.” That sentence and their work really made me question my own preconceived expectations on what “contemporary art” should be coming from a Western culture. Who gets to define what contemporary is?
My own culture as a white American doesn’t have that long of a history or tradition to draw from to influence modern art. Maybe that’s why I struggled to connect with Thai art at first, seeing it more as religious vs contemporary in its own right. Seeing the different pieces contrasted with the surrounding gorgeous architecture really made me reflect on how colonialism, culture, and tradition (or lack thereof) shape our world views and are ever present.
The Chiang Rai Contemporary Art Museum is also a must see. This space showcases stunning sculptures, photography, and media. Launched during the Biennale, it was so new I actually couldn’t find the location on Grab. I almost gave up, but while eating lunch I asked the staff if they knew the museum. One of the workers was so excited I knew the museum that she offered to drive me there herself, which was incredibly kind.
I highly recommend checking out the space while in the city, it’s a wonderful museum for art enthusiasts and highlights Chiang Rai’s growing prominence in the modern art world.
Exploring the Town
Chiang Rai’s town center boasts a plethora of charming attractions for visitors to discover. One of the most notable landmarks is the Clock Tower, a masterpiece also designed by Chalermchai Kositpipat, creator of the Blue Temple. As the sun sets, the Clock Tower comes alive with a mesmerizing light and music show, captivating onlookers with its vibrant display.
Adjacent to the Clock Tower, the serene Kok River offers a picturesque setting for a leisurely stroll. Visitors can amble along the riverbank, taking in the tranquil ambiance and enjoying the scenic views. The river also provides opportunities for boat rides, allowing visitors to experience Chiang Rai from a different perspective.
For dining, I recommend Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House, Bistro & Bar. Set along the river, this restaurant serves delicious meals in a serene garden setting. It’s the perfect spot for a relaxed evening.They even served BrewDog beer, a Columbus, OH brewery I know and love!
Conclusion
Chiang Rai’s blend of art, culture, and history makes it a destination unlike any other. From the stunning temples to the cutting-edge art scene, this city left me inspired and enriched. Two days was the perfect amount of time for my visit, though art lovers might want to stay longer to fully immerse themselves.
If you’re planning a trip to Chiang Rai or anywhere in Thailand, let me help you design the perfect itinerary through my trip design services. Book a Travel Design Package with me today to plan your next adventure!
